Thursday, July 12, 2007

A Fine Day at the Beach

Today I took a bus to a coastal town about 1.5 hours from Granada called Aluñecar. The morning went suprisingly smoothly. First, in spite of not setting an alarm clock, I woke up in good time. (So far, the only really great part of traveling alone is that you can plan to do things like, ¨take the first bus available when I get to the station¨ and no one cares.) Anyway, I had planned to get breakfast at a little place down my alley (aka street) but realized upon emerging from my hostel, that the entire street was still sleeping. But you know, when you eat dinner around 9 or 10pm, and THEN start your evening, you really should still be asleep at 8am.

Anyway, the first cafetería that I stopped in had what I wanted, and understood that I wanted it to go, AND it was less than 3 euros, which means I didn´t have to break my only other currency (a 50 euro bill), which would undoubtedly have irritated the owner. Life was good! Then I didn´t have to wait on the bus to the station, and I even got a seat on the 9 o´clock bus, rather than having to wait for the 10 o´clock one. My easy morning continued as I couldn´t find my bus listed on the electronic placard, but asked a really nice lady who helped me out very kindly and without that not-so-subtle undercurrented attitude one often gets as a tourist of ¨Man, it´s hard to believe someone as stupid as you has survived to adulthood. Maybe there´s a flaw in that survival-of-the-fittest thing...¨

So off I went to my bus, only to be stopped in the aisle right by the driver´s seat. The guy ahead of me had been assigned a seat which was already occupied. Both of these guys were older Spanish gentlemen. Before I knew what was happening, the guy already in the seat starts jesticulating wildly and exclaiming all sorts of things I didn´t understand. At first I thought he was angry, but as this whole fiasco excelerated I realized that no one was really upset.

(if you´ve never visited a country that speaks another language, you´ve missed the joy of thinking someone is angry at you and then finding out that nope, people here just sound angry, because you can´t understand and you´re stressed out and scared. Really, they´re not mad, they´re just loud. Or maybe they´re not mad or loud, you´re just paranoid :)

So guy B (in the wrong seat) gets up, still expounding on something...presumably how it doesn´t really matter who´s in which seat anyway) and starts directing his jesticulation and verbal outbursts at guy C, who was apparently in guy B´s seat. So guy C gets up and proceeds to displace guy D, who is really supposed to be where guy E is sitting, etc., etc., etc. I swear, at least 6 people moved before it was all over.

In the meantime, here I am standing at the front of the bus wondering just how long this process could possibly continue and trying not to laugh out loud. I mean, it was quite amusing to watch all these eldery Spanish men and women resolve this issue together. The lady in front of guy B started saying, ´Arriba, arriba!´ (directing the guy to get up and move) and though I was trying hard not to smile, my eyes must have given me away because when she caught my eye she cracked a smile and I couldn´t help it. I started laughing.

Eventually everyone re-sorted themselves. I sat in a seat which was not mine, as mine was already occupied and you can bet your sweet bippy I wasn´t going to say anything. Finally, the bus rolled south.

The information kiosk was closed when I got there (dangit) but there were signs to the beach everywhere, so off I went. Soon after arriving at the beach a few things because very clear to me:

-the beach was not the nice, soft sand I had anticipated. It was a pebble beach, and I hadn´t brought sandals. Dangit.

-going to the beach seems to be a family affair in Spain. Lots of little kids, some of whom seem to have some trouble distinguishing between the sea and the toilet. Dangit.

-sometimes a one-piece bathing suit for a European woman is the bottom half of a bikini. I have experienced this before, but somehow blocked it from my memory and managed to be surprised again today. And while I have your attention, let me just say that I find it particularly ironic that the people who wear less clothing than average seem uncannily to be some of the people who should, perhaps, be wearing more. It´s almost like they got up that morning and looked in the mirror and thought, ¨Yuck. That´s not pretty. Well, misery loves company. Maybe I´ll go topless at the public beach today...¨ Dangit.

-there is apparently an ozone hole above the beach where I laid out today, as my skin -which, for the record, has gotten more sun than normal for this time of the year, so I wasn´t overly concerned about burning- definately got crispy-crittered during my time on the beach. ¨That explains all the beach umbrellas,¨ I thought to myself as I painfully picked my way back through the stones to the road. Dangit.

In spite of these minor setbacks, a good time was had by all in my party (aka, me). On the walk back to the bus station, an old man I passed on the street told me I was pretty, and at the bus station I helped a group of travelers whose Spanish was apparently even worse than mine. Sad for them, but encourging to me that there are mentally healthy people over the age of 4 in the country how are worse at the language than am I.

I have posted a couple pictures on facebook, should you care to see them. I wanted to get a picture of the feuding musical-chair players, but thought I might be pressing my luck, so you won´t see them. Sorry.

4 comments:

Ryan H. said...

How wonderful! I love the part about all the old men switching seats and thinking they are angry. Every single time I talk to a Russian-speaker I think the same thing. I have no idea what I did but I'm sure they're angry at me for some reason because the tone of their voice is so harsh. I totally track with you on that. Plus, the whole beach adventure, awesome! I'm just happy for you that the whole beach itself wasn't clothing optional. :)

Anonymous said...

leslie, you're the best blogger i've ever read! (not to downplay the compliment, but you're one of 2 bloggers i've read. however, i'm sure if i read 50 blogs, you'd probably still be the best.) i'm in the office with reagan and i was just beginning to read your blog when she started to fuss. so i read your blog out loud to her and now she's sleeping peacefully in her little bouncy seat. that's not to say your blog was boring, but so good and soothing that it lulled a 2 month old to sleep. you rock.

i wish i could be there with you to experience spain. i would be a good traveling companion for you, because i have very little experience (read: none) getting around on my own in a foreign country so i would pretty much follow you around doing whatever you wanted to do. still working on getting home the same time that you are. i'll keep you posted on that. in the mean time, keep up the high-larious blogs. it does this professional mom's funny bone good.

love and a squish,
josie (and reagan)

Anonymous said...

ps - i just went back and read the comments on your previous posts, leslie. brooke, if you're reading this comment, you're hilarious. can we be friends? then you and leslie and i can hang out and be hilarious together! so whenever leslie gets back from spain and you get back from whatever far flung part of the world you're in let's all "hang out" as the kids are calling it these days.

Anonymous said...

pps - is it bad blog etiquette to talk to someone other than the blogger when posting a comment? hmmm.